|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Oct 17, 2006 22:38:23 GMT -5
Dwight,
I have been using WinISD alpha. It's free from some site in Europe. A quick google search will send you right to it.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by jeffreyt4589 on Oct 19, 2006 14:37:05 GMT -5
Ever notice that fiberglass enclosures are simply built with a particle board box, covered with fleece, and fiberglass resin??? I have been trained by JL Audio, Clarion, and Precision Power on the installation process, and sorry to tell you that this is all wrong. Braces, or not, the wood isn`t dense enough to sound good, the design looks good, but sound quality will not be. Don`t mean to step on any toes, just thought a do-it-yourselfer would like the opinion of someone with years of experience in this area
|
|
|
|
Post by Wally & Kathy on Oct 19, 2006 14:53:13 GMT -5
Then why are most all home stereo speaker enclosures built this way? (I'm a fan of Bose speakers myself)
Jeff, why don't you tell him the correct way to construct the enclosure?
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Oct 19, 2006 20:33:31 GMT -5
Well, I guess I'll just have to finish this design and learn my lesson and move on to a proper box next time. But for now, please don't turn this thread into a debate on how to properly design a box and say that it has to be done a certain way. My 13 years of engineering and 25 years involvement in pro audio has me skeptical that simply changing from plywood to mdf is going to make my box sound much better. On the other hand, I haven't built too many ported boxes myself and I'm willing to accept that I may get it wrong.
Just because I have lots of experience in other areas of engineering doesn't mean I can't miss some practical aspects in this area. Either way, I will have learned a lot in the process.
Now back to our regularly scheduled program...
|
|
|
|
Post by jeffreyt4589 on Oct 19, 2006 21:35:58 GMT -5
Wow, the Cruiser people have changed since I parked Showtime in the building, and retired it from shows. I remember when you could offer some help to people without it turning into an argument over IQ, and such. I never put down the box, simply the material. I have learned now to keep my mouth shut, and let you people figure out stuff for yourself. Hope your box turns out just like a high tech, specially engineeed, custom enclosure you have always dreamed of, it looks great, and if you like the sound, that`s all that matters. Godspeed Captain Engineer, and Bose Boy.
|
|
|
|
Post by Wally & Kathy on Oct 20, 2006 7:17:13 GMT -5
Don't you just love it when folks get an "attitude".  |
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Nov 1, 2006 11:41:17 GMT -5
I had a chance to install the driver and fire up the sub last night. The response in a large room is very smooth. The way it's braced up, even with the driver slingin' around at 3/4" excursion, you can barely feel any vibration in the cabinet anywhere. Inside the car, there is more than enough output for what I want.
The bad part is port noise, when I'm running pure tones through the driver, I get a lot of port noise at really low freqs like 30-40Hz. I haven't flanged the inside end of the vent tube yet, but even if I pull the white tube out of the elbow I get some noise. Running music through it, it isn't really noticeable. I think the square edge at the port end on the inside as well as a ridge in the elbow are giving me grief. I may try to find a smoother pipe bend for the port or do some porting and polishing on the existing one.
Overall, I'm pleased with how close the performance came to the value predicted in the software. It's amazing how much low end energy this single ten puts out, especially inside the car. It's not going to compete with 2 12s in output, but the low frequency extension is amazing! It's enough to tickle your ribs while sitting in the driver's seat.
|
|
|
|
Post by lowpt on Nov 1, 2006 18:06:00 GMT -5
do you have room for a larger diameter port? that should help with the noise.
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Nov 1, 2006 18:30:01 GMT -5
No, a larger port would require more length than I have room for. I bought a "long turn" 90 degree bend today that should be smoother inside. If I can get it to fit right, it should fix the noise issue. Truthfully, with regular music, the port noise doesn't show up but I want to get it right while I can. The street bend one I have now has a ridge in it that may be causing some of the noise, I even sanded it down a bit but the turn is pretty sharp inside the tube. Ialso still have to flange the inside end of the port.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Nov 17, 2006 15:21:06 GMT -5
Latest Update... I put in a longer sweep elbow, tuned the length of the port using my test tone cd I created, flared the inside end of the port, sanded some rough edges smooth and tried it in the car. I could give myself a slight back massage with this thing. I am really encouraged by how this thing sounds. I can get solid response down to 30Hz in the car, 20Hz is still there but it has started to drop off by then. The port noise is way down, even with test tones. I tried the box in each position in the rear of the car and no one position seems to be much better than the other. The "hanging up" position in the highest location seems to have the most output but not by much. The thing is still usable when placed in the "hanging down" lowest position. In this location the rear edge of the box is actually touching the carpet (The floor isn't level relative to the shelf hangars.) but it still puts out very well. I now have to figure out how to keep my rear hatch from rattling. : : Now to just get the cosmetic part done then get my amps and eq hooked up. Brian |
|
|
|
Post by ncptcruiser on Nov 17, 2006 17:59:12 GMT -5
Hey Brian,
I've heard the DynaMat pads work good to control rattles & such...may be worth a shot to put some underneath the plastic of your hatch?
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Jan 1, 2007 19:47:32 GMT -5
Got the box coated today with the Rhino Lining Duraspray. This is the thinner, harder stuff, not the thick rubber stuff. It has a bit more texture in it than I wanted but overall I'm pleased with how it turned out. The pics just have it sitting together, not really bolted together yet.   Here you can see where I had the first section of the port tube sprayed. The coating is very thin here so it won't affect the geometry of the port.  I may stick a blue LED at the inside end of the curved port tube just to give it a little glow... |
|
|
|
Post by JamesP on Jan 2, 2007 7:04:12 GMT -5
Looks good Brian,I had a truck with Rhino lining and loved it.Like you said tuff stuff.Do they still offer different colors in the rhino coating.Would have been cool if blue was an option.
James
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Jan 2, 2007 9:00:09 GMT -5
Yea, they can do colors but they wanted extra to do it.
The black with the texture in it actually looks good with the slate grey though.
A little secret I found out about the rhino lining is that they have to add pigment to do even the black color becuase the natural color of the lining is white. If they tell you they want extra to do a color because it's more work, just tell them they have to add pigment for black anyway. I think they just don't want to hook up another color since black is the most popular.
Brian
|
|
guess who