|
|
Post by JamesP on Aug 22, 2006 6:00:11 GMT -5
Looks great Brian, Can't wait to see the finished product.
James
|
|
|
|
Post by crusinusa on Sept 1, 2006 15:49:14 GMT -5
Looking good. I was reading about your cover spray. I have a few guys that had their boxes sprayed with that rhinocover. The same hard black stuff you put in truck beds as a liner. Seals it perfectly and has a neat rough texture to it. Not sure of the price but that will work. I'm thinking about doing mine if I keep it when I sell the car.
|
|
|
|
Post by battlecruiser on Sept 2, 2006 22:53:34 GMT -5
![]() C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Documents\My Pictures\Kodak Pictures\2006-09-02[/img] Hey, i killed my cargo space but whatever it sounds fantastic. I use good 12" subs from blaupunkt's pro component line called transparents. They are powered by a 1000 watt memphis D amp. Interior matching custom box and i was set. Good luck with your set up it looks neat! |
|
|
|
Post by battlecruiser on Sept 2, 2006 22:54:32 GMT -5
I attempted to put the picture i have of them in that first post but it wouldnt let me...anyone know how to insert a picture from my computer into my posts? thanks -Jason
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Sept 4, 2006 8:29:31 GMT -5
Hey Jase,
Welcome to the Club! I am familiar with the transparent series speakers. I have the components in the front of my GT. I painted the tweeters grey to match the interior and mounted them on the mirror plates. I tried to get the 12" woofer from crutchfield but just missed out on them clearing them out.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by battlecruiser on Sept 4, 2006 12:25:52 GMT -5
Yeah buddy the Blaupunkt components are great plus the company is good about warranty and product reimbursment "if" anything should go wrong. Any ideas on how you guys resize photos?? every time i try to upload a picture here its enormous...thanks. -Jase
|
|
|
|
Post by FlowRW on Sept 4, 2006 14:48:19 GMT -5
Hi there....email me the photos you want and where you want them.
ccptc@earthlink.net
|
|
|
|
Post by battlecruiser on Sept 4, 2006 15:15:57 GMT -5
ok FlowRW when i get to my home PC (at work now) I will send you a couple pics id like electricblue gt here to see. Thanks May i ask what program you use because id like to be able to just post them when i need to and not be enormous. -Jase
|
|
|
|
Post by FlowRW on Sept 4, 2006 15:49:25 GMT -5
I can reduce the size of them unless you want to go ahead and do it. I try not to post anything bigger that 1200x800 on the website. On the forums, we try to keep it no larer than 600 as the largest one size only for those on dial up.
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Sept 21, 2006 18:53:05 GMT -5
Did a bit more on the box in the past few days.  Below you can see the screen I made from an old speaker grille. I will probably leave it off. I think it will make the effective area of the port smaller and cut the port efficiency down. If something gets dropped into the port while the box is "hanging up", I can just take the baffle off and remove it. Would look nice and finished if I left it in there though!  I added my bracing to the inside. The braces will connect all the sides, top and bottom together to stiffen the box. They will be screwed and glued when all is done. The two larger braces in the center will also accept two of the speaker mounting screws. This will solidly mount the speaker to the whole structure instead of just floating on one panel. The braces also allow me to place the baffle panel screws away from the edges of the box, allowing me to round over the edges with the router without interfering with the screwhead locations. I'm going to try to find some nice looking black allen head screws that are low profile.   I also, added my port which will face away from the driver. I wanted to keep the port next to the driver so I used a 90 degree "bend street" PVC pipe. It has a smooth end that fits snugly into the recess and is finished off with a flare in the wood to smooth out the airflow. I will add the white pvc straight pipe to tune the enclosure.  Here is the hole for the port tube. The tube fits in so that the inside of the tube is flush with the flare cut in the wood. This gives a nice smooth transition to the outside.  I beveled the end of the white PVC pipe to mate with the 90 degree piece, which has a 45 degree mating section inside the tube. This will keep the path inside smooth and prevent turbulence.   Here you can see how the port tube will sit in the box. I will probably open up the large brace by drilling holes in it to make it acoustically "less visible". It's kind of cramped in there.  After it's tuned, I'll fill all the screwholes and gaps and then figure out how to cover/treat the box and enjoy it! Should be nice when done. I think I could probably build this thing in a day now that I've done all the measuring and designing... Brian |
|
|
|
Post by ncptcruiser on Sept 22, 2006 2:39:56 GMT -5
Lookin' great Brian! Can't wait to HEAR it someday!  |
|
|
|
Post by diaz on Sept 23, 2006 7:53:49 GMT -5
countersink the amps on the sides or top of the boxes and cover with plexiglass and insert neon lights where amps are placed, but dont forget the fans to keep them cool
|
|
|
|
Post by jeffreyt4589 on Oct 17, 2006 13:02:53 GMT -5
Sub boxes are not supposed to be built out of plywood, that`s the first rule. Plywood will not absorb the sound waves. ALWAYS use particle board. The lower bass notes will suck with the plywood, and the hard hitting bass notes will sound pingy. use the boards you have as templates for cutting themout of particle board, and it will sound 100% better, unless you want to sound like the guys with the fart can mufflers riding around annoying everybody
|
|
|
|
Post by electricbluegt on Oct 17, 2006 15:19:06 GMT -5
I know most folks use MDF for car subs. MDF is very machinable, very dimensionally stable and is cheap. However, void free plywood is much stronger, much lighter and given a properly designed enclosure will sound just as good. Properly designed is the key word. I have alot of bracing inside that ties the structure together. 99.9% of PA gear is built out of plywood because of its strength and light weight. Seems to work fine for them.
As far as sound being absorbed by the wood. You don't want any energy being transferred to the wood. You want it all to stay in the pressures and tuning of the air. Any energy that is absorbed by the wood will resonate and color the sound with those frequencies that the wood resonates at. I guess in the case of a not so good design, MDF would dampen the lost energy some whereas the plywood would just honk.
With my box design there is at most a 10" span between any two bracing points. It's extremely rigid and should be pretty acoustically inert by the time I get it coated.
Thanks for the comments though.
Brian
|
|
|
|
Post by lowpt on Oct 17, 2006 17:28:32 GMT -5
ALWAYS use particle board? I guess all of those infinite baffle and fiberglass systems I used to install were wrong too.?  Just kidding, but I am interested in what software you are using in your design? I am still using Rockfords term 1A. It is kind of outdated. I would love to have something better, especially if it would help me with bandpass enclosures. Dwight |
|
Just kidding, but I am interested in what software you are using in your design? I am still using Rockfords term 1A. It is kind of outdated. I would love to have something better, especially if it would help me with bandpass enclosures.
guess who