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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 1, 2009 14:24:29 GMT -5
2001 5 speed What are some of the symptoms of a failing clutch hydraulic unit on a PT? Mine is shifting hard, making a noise when the clutch is pushed all the way to the floor and just not acting right it seems. Can't shift normal because it makes a little grind noise when going 2 to 3 and sometimes 3 to 4. (Like ya let the clutch out too soon while still shifting). It almost sounds like the pressure plate is dragging the clutch disc when the pedal is pushed in. (Or noisy throwout bearing?) If I let the pedal out part way, maybe an inch from the floor, the sound stops which doesn’t make sense if the disc was dragging the pressure plate, seems like it would get louder, not go away. If it is the throwout bearing it would seem the sound would stay the same except for when the pedal was fully released and not making contact with the pressure plate. Toe seems to be ok……. Anyone else had a similar situation?
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Post by robinh on Jun 1, 2009 20:40:57 GMT -5
Actually your throwout bearing will wear more while you have the clutch fully depressed. If you're sitting at a stop light, when the car has been run and is good and hot, and you hold the clutch to the floor and it's making an odd grinding sort of noise, it's likey time for a clutch overhaul to include both pressure plate and throwout bearing. I'd do a complete kit on it.
Now if it were hydraulic, you'd see a leak somewhere. The hydraulic systems is connected to the main well for the master brake cylinder, there isn't a separate well for the clutch fluid. If you've noticed a drop in brake fluid you could be leaking it out via either the clutch slave or master cylinder (depending on which tranny you have). If you're in a GT, your 5-speed will be a Getrag, if non-turbo it will likely be the less expensive 350 tranny rather than the G288. Either way they both share the brake fluid well.
My clutch is falling apart, but with different results. No grinding, but flat out clutch slip in 2nd and 3rd. I had to detune the engine for fear of losing it completely as it would just let go at WOT in both 2nd and 3rd gears.
There is one other place that you could have issues, well actually more than that but one other that you'd normally expect out of the age of your tranny, that is if you have noticed your brake fluid is low, you may have an airbubble in your clutch master cylinder and it may not be throwing out the pressure plate all the way away from the flywheel, and that might be the grinding you're hearing, however I highly doubt that's the cause.
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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 2, 2009 20:47:03 GMT -5
My 01 does have a seperate fluid cup for the clutch and I checked it tonight and it's full, no apparent leakage at the slave but I still need to check operation of the slave. Master cylinder and slave available seperatley but come prefilled and have a quick disconnect hose deal that takes a (you guessed it) a special tool to disconnect the two parts. So I'm not sure what I'm going to do if I decide to replace one or both parts. Only have about 64,000 miles on it and I'm sure the disc is fine since I normally get 120 to 150,000 miles out of a clutch. My Saturn has 187,000 on it on the original clutch.
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Post by aquacruisersteve on Jun 4, 2009 19:36:55 GMT -5
If the clutch is hard to change and its not slipping I would suspect the hydraulics. I'm on my second set of hydraulics Master/slave cyl in six months. Luckily the second time I only had to pay labor. They bypass internally feels like you have no pedal at all. Also I've notice in downshifting there is a tick when I'm coasting with the clutch in. OK long story longer. You have to replace the hydraulics as a sealed unit. no bleeder port. Or you have to be able to reverser bleed which isn't easy. Chrysler does sell the complete kit I think mine was 165 and it comes with a one year warranty. I'm actually thinking at 140k of selling and bying a Pacifica we need something bigger my PT GT is my tow vehicle so something bigger would be better. Good Luck
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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 7, 2009 10:45:27 GMT -5
Thing is, I have the same pedal feel as always. I got unde the car yesterday and pulled back the rubber grommet around the clutch fork and it appears that the hydraulics are working fine (best I can tell) no leakdown on the slave, it stays out (the slave pin) with the pedal pushed down and doesn't seem to be bleeding back. You can actually see the fingers on the pressure plate and they seem to be operating normally. I really hate to take this thing in and they tell me the clutch is shot and they pull it apart and it's not.
What type of "tick" were you talking about? When I'm at idle and the car is in neutral and push the pedal to the floor and go to push the gearshift into first gear, I can hear a tick sound or more like a 'shick, shick, shick' sound, kinda like the disc is scraping against the pressure plate or flywheel, but if I let the clutch pedal up a little the sound goes away. This is perplexing me at best.
Has anybody had a clutch replaced by the dealer and how much did it cost?
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Post by robinh on Jun 7, 2009 19:41:34 GMT -5
If it's under warranty, I'd do it. Otherwise the only other person who touches my car is an ex-Chrysler employee, ASE certified, here in Mooresville. Damn fine mechanic, name of Jon Sipple, owner of Performance Auto Service, 156-D N Broad St. 28115. 704-799-7017. Might give him a call and ask on his price versus the dealership. Getting ready to take mine to him to have him put my new struts on.
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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 8, 2009 10:36:03 GMT -5
That might be a tad far for me to drive for service unless he's like about half the cost of a dealer.
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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 8, 2009 18:33:37 GMT -5
1st dealer--$1,460.00 without replacing either hydraulic piece.
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Post by robinh on Aug 11, 2009 23:02:55 GMT -5
eeeeeeeeeuuuuuuuuuuuwwwwwwwwwwww
Just noticed you weren't from the Carolina's, didn't see that earlier...
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Post by WA2COOL on Aug 27, 2009 20:38:33 GMT -5
No, I'm just a tad north of there. However I will be down in September for the NHRA races at Z-Max Dragway.
Chromenut, do you think you could find out what he might charge to look at it and maybe diagnose the problem? I really want to be able to drive it to MB in October but I'm kinda hesitant to drive the darn thing even though I can but just have to granny shift and double clutch it.
Maybe I'll break down and replace the hydraulics first, then I know they are good but from everything I can see myself I question that there is anything wrong with them.
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Post by WA2COOL on Apr 6, 2010 12:51:14 GMT -5
Has anyone had a clutch unit replaced and it was NOT worn out but something had gone wrong with the self adjusting mechanism? According to the service manual there is some type of self adjusting mechanism built into the pressure plate from how I interpret what they have written. Anyone had a clutch replaced because the self adjusting mechanism failed? I spent about 90 minutes last Monday making minor adjustments to the clutch master cylinder push rod and thought that I had finally gotten it adjusted so it was driving pretty much normal. Drove it all last weekend and it was fine, no problems. Wife gets in the thing this morning and she had to shut the engine off at the stop light to get the thing to shift into gear and then refire the engine. I surrender..............I'm betting when they pull it out the disc still has plenty of life left in it but something else has failed.
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Post by catinpt on Apr 6, 2010 13:13:11 GMT -5
You could have a master cylinder or slave cylinder going bad. But if it's grinding when the clutch pedal is in than the throw out bearing is likely to be bad. It would be better to if you pull it down to replace both cylinders due to year of car
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Post by WA2COOL on Apr 15, 2010 14:27:20 GMT -5
I surrendered. Wife needed a car and I had a 93 Bonneville with only 26,000 miles on it sitting in my driveway so I yanked the tags on the PT and put the Bonneville on the road. I just could not bring myself to spend the $1,400 to get it fixed right now. PT will go in the garage for future use.......or once I save enough money to get it fixed. Guess I'll be a spectator at RTTB for a while.......if I ever get there again. Can I enter a cherry 93 Bonneville for RTTB?
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Post by WA2COOL on Jun 18, 2011 14:11:44 GMT -5
One Year Update: Still sitting in driveway. Still driving the Bonneville and on the highway it gets 30.15 mpg so I can't complain about the highway mileage between it and the PT. My son's historic 85 Trans Am got totalled about 2 weeks ago so I may take the insurance money and get it fixed so I have a spare car around.
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Post by WA2COOL on Feb 1, 2012 22:32:19 GMT -5
Still sittin in the garage...... Put a slave cylinder in it back in the summer and it didn't help.....
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