|
wobble
Mar 7, 2006 15:23:53 GMT -5
Post by electricbluegt on Mar 7, 2006 15:23:53 GMT -5
I still don't see how worn axles could cause a knock at startup....when the car isn't in gear...or moving.
Did they do all the work up till now under warranty? If so, I find it interesting that now they are saying your warranty is voided after they did the work. I wonder if they just want you to go away so they don't have to do any more warranty work. The burden is upon them to prove that lowering your car is the cause for the drive axles being worn. That in itself might not be too far fetched. If lowering the car did cause the wear does that mean if your alternator goes out during the warranty period, that it won't be covered?
Brian
|
|
|
wobble
Mar 7, 2006 15:56:13 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Mar 7, 2006 15:56:13 GMT -5
I've had alot of warranty work done since i've had it Brian.It's all been covered even the axles but they told me it might not be covered the next time since i voided the warranty with the install of the springs. The first time i had it in for that problem was May 2005.I have all my work orders on it.They put in a new torque converter because i needed my transmission oil pump seal fixed so they were going to try that to see if that was the cause of the wobble also new wheel bearings because they were a little loose and now new axles because they were worn.Now they say the lowered springs could be the cause of the wobble even though i had the same problem a year ago and the springs are two weeks old. I hope the rest is covered on warranty but that's what they told Brian.I only have 22600 miles on it so i have quite a bit of warranty left. I did test the motor mounts but i'm not sure how much movement is too much from what i could see.
|
|
|
wobble
Mar 8, 2006 18:41:38 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Mar 8, 2006 18:41:38 GMT -5
Well i'm going to do what Tomcruz said to check not only the rear tires but also the fronts for being bent or a bad tire.Chrysler dealer said they were straight a long time ago but i'm taking it to Belle Tire tomorrow for a closer inspection. Thanks guys for all the info for a cure. Thanks, Mark
|
|
|
wobble
May 3, 2006 8:27:43 GMT -5
Post by ptme on May 3, 2006 8:27:43 GMT -5
CHECK THE TIE ROD ENDS!!!!!!!! Mine wobbles all the time now it statred light and now it pops and wobbles.
|
|
|
wobble
May 3, 2006 11:19:46 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on May 3, 2006 11:19:46 GMT -5
They supposed to have checked those along time ago and guess were fine but i will take it someone else to make sure. It's at the dealership as i write. I took it in the other day for a small tranny leak . They replaced the cooler lines and solenoid pack and GUESS WHAT? !!!!! I got it back with a massive leak so it's in the shop today.But anyways thanks PTME
|
|
|
wobble
Sept 22, 2006 22:22:29 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Sept 22, 2006 22:22:29 GMT -5
Hey the wobble continues but now it like bounces up and down. Possible motor mount problem still?? I'm taking it to the dealer this week in Lugoff (Dick Smith) and see what they say .I have less than 4000 miles left on the warranty. Take Care, Mark
|
|
|
wobble
Sept 22, 2006 22:23:47 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Sept 22, 2006 22:23:47 GMT -5
It's driving me crazy !!!!! lol
|
|
|
wobble
Sept 23, 2006 7:16:17 GMT -5
Post by PT4U2C on Sept 23, 2006 7:16:17 GMT -5
It's easy to blame a mod(lowering springs) if the dealer can't diagnose the problem. Find another dealer! It sure sounds like several things.... motor mounts, low trans fluid, tie rods ends, bushings....Since trans work was done(torque converter), I'd check ALL of these at another dealer or MOPAR specialist.
Richard
|
|
|
wobble
Sept 30, 2006 0:12:40 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Sept 30, 2006 0:12:40 GMT -5
Well the guy who went for a spin with me from the dealer said that he didn't think the motor mounts would cause a side to side motion. He said he would get back with me on it when a chrysler tech comes on mine and some other cars. I'm just so confused on this. It has new wheel bearings,drive axles,torque converter,new tires and the rims are to be straight. It only shakes in the floor and not in the steering wheel.
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 9, 2006 11:08:45 GMT -5
Post by WA2COOL on Oct 9, 2006 11:08:45 GMT -5
Here's something to try before you go and spend any more money. See if one of the PT owners in your club has stock tires and rims because it looks like you have stock rims correct? If they have an automatic etc. see if their car has the same wobble that you describe that you have. If not, see if you can swap wheels and tires with them and see if your problem goes away. This is going to cost you a little elbow gease, but no money. If you still have the same problem, them I'd rule out the wheels and tires.
Back in the early to mid 70's a LOT of tires had what they called "radial wobble" and it was a construction problem that was corrected eventually. It occured at low speeds and usually up to about 15 mph or so and then it went away. Occasionally you will get a tire(s) that still has this problem. I was behind a Jeep Grand Cherokee the other day and was in bumper to bumper traffic at low speed and the back end of that thing went side to side like an old dog shaking off water. It's possible the rims were bent, but probably not both rims because both sides were doing it.
If you can't find someone to swap with that you know has good rims/tires, then your next step will be to find someone who can measure the runout of your rims and tires. A rim can look perfectly round if you jack up the car and spin the rim, but is the rim concentric? Only way to tell is to dismount the tires and have the runout checked.
Do you have a Tire Rack location anywhere near you? I would think they should have the necessary tools to do this. Call around, don't just take it somewhere that says 'yeah we can do that'. You need to have a runout gauge.
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 9, 2006 17:08:29 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Oct 9, 2006 17:08:29 GMT -5
Thanks for the info
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 11, 2006 8:22:08 GMT -5
Post by WA2COOL on Oct 11, 2006 8:22:08 GMT -5
I went back and re-read your first post and if it is doing it right when it shifts from 1st to 2nd, it is possible that you are feeling the clutch pack (or band if so equipped) engaging into 2nd gear. The dealer should get their transmission specialist to drive your car and give you his opinion. Might not be a wheel problem after all.......
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 11, 2006 15:02:55 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Oct 11, 2006 15:02:55 GMT -5
I have yet to hear from the dealer I think it's been two weeks. I will be at the Mrytle Beach show. I'm going to ask around to see if anyone knows what's going on. Thanks again . Mark
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 24, 2006 15:00:56 GMT -5
Post by kzoocruiser on Oct 24, 2006 15:00:56 GMT -5
Well i went back to Dick Smith in Lugoff and they sent me to Dodgeland in Columbia and i didn't get nowhere with them either .This is what they say. Customer states shimmy in floor (not in steering wheel) @ 15 - 20 MPH with quick accel - - also has bounce @ 50 MPH. Aftermarket lowering kit has changed axle drive angles , shotening axles - - no play to absorb vibration. They blamed my Eibach Springs even though i had this same problem with the factory springs. Now i'm out of luck and almost out of warranty . Any suggestions my fellow lowered PTer's ? Take Care, Mark
|
|
|
wobble
Oct 24, 2006 17:24:18 GMT -5
Post by Tony Tomes on Oct 24, 2006 17:24:18 GMT -5
well, I have the factory springs, nothing changed in the front end or rear end and I get a wobble on hard and normal takeoffs, but it is intermittent. I get it after the car has sat still for an hour or two. Also get a bounce that comes and goes. Sometimes it is there at 45 thru 55 and sometimes it rides smooth as can be. Stock size tires and wheels. The techs at this dealership "could not duplicate" my problem. I went to the general manager because I was pissed and he assured me that they will get to what it is even if it is after the 7/70 runs out. Make sure you document every time you go to the dealer. Often they don't give you paperwork if they found nothing, but ask for copies anyway. I learned that when I had to replace my rack & pinion at about 38000 miles. With enough documentation I have been promised $500 back (though it cost me 730) I will let you know what I find out, the service department manager rode with me and even though it did not do it while he was in the car, my explanations to him of what goes on led him to say he was going to check manuals and speak with some other folks. He did mention that it sounded to him like it could be torq converter erelated.
|
|